I call these
candles “Cow Spot” candles because they incorporate two distinct colors formed
into random patterns, much like the spots on a cow. They are traditionally
called two-tone candles. They have a rough-finish due to the cold temperature
at which the wax
is poured, a necessity to keep the colors from blending together. Each Cow Spot
candle is unique, which is one of the reasons I like them so much. You can make
these candles in any mold
you like. The process is simple, and since the wax
is so cool when you pour it, you don’t need to poke relief holes or make a
second pour for these candles.

 

 

What You Will
Need - Supplies

       
Molding
Candle Wax

       
On or more Candle
Molds

       
Candle
Dye, different colors

       
Jiffy
Wicker

       
1/0
square waxed wick or 34-37
flat cotton core waxed wick

       
Silicone
Spray Mold Release (optional)

       
Steamer
Pot or old Sauce Pan to create a double boiler

       
Two or more Standard
Size or Small
Size Melting Pots with pour spout, or other heat proof containers

       
Wood
Stir Sticks, chopsticks, or something else to stir the wax

       
Thermometer

       
Scissors

       
Craft
Knife

       
Candle
Fragrance, (optional)

 

Also a good idea to
have around:

       
Paper towels

       
Wax
Remover

       
Aluminum Foil

       
Newspaper, butcher
paper, or scrap paper to cover work surfaces

       
Fire Extinguisher (just
in case)

 

How to Set Up
Your Work Area

1. Put down
   newspaper or butcher paper on tables and countertops to catch spills and
   for easy cleanup.
2. Have paper towels
   and Windex on hand for cleaning stovetops.
3. Wrap stove burner
   bowls in tin foil to catch drips of wax,
   and for easy cleanup afterwards.

 

Prep Your Mold

Inspect your mold
to ensure that there is no residual wax
on the inside surfaces or seams of your mold.
If there is, remove it.

 

 

Spray the inside of
your mold
with Silicone
Spray Mold Release. To do this, either follow the directions on the can, or
hold the nozzle 8 to 10 inches from your mold
and release the spray in short bursts. I little goes a long way with Silicone
Spray Mold Release. (If you are using a plastic or rubber candle mold, do
not spray it with Silicone
Spray Mold Release, as it will ruin the mold.)

 

Wicking your
Mold

Wick
your mold
using wick
and your Jiffy
Wicker, or mold
sealer and a wick
holder bar. (For instructions on how to use a Jiffy
Wicker visit our tutorial on How to Use a Jiffy Wicker.)

 

 

Melting
your Pillar Candle Wax

You will be
preparing two different colors
of wax
at the same time. For this, you will need two steamer
pots and two melting
pots, or one steamer
pot large enough to hold two
melting pots or other heat safe containers in which to melt your wax.

 

Melting your Pillar
Candle Wax

Fill
the bottom part of your double boiler (the steamer
pot or the deep sauce pan) with about two inches of cool water, and place
on the burner set to high temperature.

 

A
simple double boiler using an old sauce pan and a meting pot with a spout.

  

Place
pieces of 139
degree Molding Candle Wax to be melted into the melting
pot with a pouring spout, set the melting
pot in the water, and attend to it as the wax
liquefies. (When the water begins to boil, turn the heat down to medium low or
low.)

 

If
you have a large block of wax
and need instructions on how to safely break it into smaller pieces, please
visit our section on How To
Break Up Wax Blocks

 

When
the wax
is entirely liquid (i.e., when there are no solid chunks any longer in the pot)
you have successfully melted the wax.

 

Our
139
degree Molding Candle Wax melts at about 139
degrees F. The wax
will continue to grow hotter as it remains in the double boiler. The temperature
of the wax
should get to 190
degrees F.

  

Separate the Wax

Before going to the
next step, which is adding color
dye chips, separate your melted wax
into separate containers. You can use two spouted
melting pots, or old soup cans, or some other heat safe vessel.

 

Adding
Dye

After
you have separated the wax
into separate containers, add candle
dye to each. Use contrasting colors,
so that when your candle is finished, you will be able to see the two distinct colors.

 

Each
of our diamond
shaped dye chips colors 1 lb of wax.
Use more or less candle
dye for lighter or darker colored
candles. Drop a dye chip
(or part of a dye chip)
into the melted wax,
and stir
until the dye chip
is entirely dissolved into the liquid wax.

 

Adding
Fragrance

After
you have separated out your wax
and created your different colors,
add your candle
fragrance, if you are using any, to each color.
The standard ratio for our candle fragrance
oils is one ounce of fragrance
oil per 1 lb of wax.
Use more or less fragrance
for lighter or heavier scented candles. Add the candle fragrance
to the melted and colored
wax
in each separate container, and stir
each thoroughly to get even distribution of the candle
fragrance.

 

You now have two
separate containers with different colored
wax
in each.

 

Let the Wax Cool

In order to keep
the different colors
of wax
distinct while pouring and setting your candle, the wax
needs to be very cool
when you pour it. Remove the containers from the heat source and allow
the wax
to cool at room temperature.

 

Let each color
of wax
cool until it reaches about 135
degrees. At this temperature,
it will have developed a film. Stir the film into the still liquid wax,
scraping semi-hard portions of wax
from the sides and bottoms of the containers. The wax
will take on a gloppy consistency. This is the correct time to pour the
two-tone candles.

 

 

 

Pouring the
Candles

When both of your colors
are the same gloppy consistency, (at about 135
degrees F, more or less), begin pouring them at the same time into
your candle mold.

†

 

Position your two
pouring containers at opposite sides of the mold opening.
Try to get each color
to dribble down the inside edge of the mold
as you pour. In this manner, they each have time to cool in the air before they
meet in the middle, inhibiting the tendency for the colors
to blend.

 

 

You can stop mid
pour and turn the mold
a little, then begin dribbling the candle wax
into the mold
again. This breaks up the monotony of a half-and-half candle and gives you that
cow-spot look.

 

 

Because the wax
is cool and gloppy when you pour it, the top of the candle will be of a rough,
oat mealy texture. When you are finished pouring, let the candle cool.

 

Let Candle Cool

Since the wax
will have been very cool when you pour it, there will not be very much wax
shrinkage as the candle cools. If there is, you can use a little extra wax
to fill the sink hole.

 

Remove The
Candle From the Mold

When your candle
has cooled completely, you may remove it from the mold. For
instructions on how to disassemble a Jiffy
Wicker and remove a pillar candle from its mold,
see our instructions on Basic Pillar Candles.

 

Trim the Wick

When your candle is
out of the mold,
cut the wick
at the bottom of the candle, so that it is flush with the bottom surface of the
candle. Trim the wick
at the top of the candle to ¼”.

 

Finished Two
Tone Candles

You can use the
rough end or the smooth end as the top of your candle, whichever you like
better. This is also a great way to use leftover wax
from other projects. The technique is easiest to use with pillar molds,
but with practice can also yield positive results from ball
molds, two
piece molds, and votive
molds as well.

 

 

 

Finish Notes:

       
For instructions on
removing the mold seams from your pillar candles, see our reference section on Removing Seams from Candles

       
For instructions on
leveling your candles (in the event that they came out tilted for some reason)
please see our reference section on Candle Leveling

 

Caution:

       
Never pour liquid wax
down a drain. It will solidify in the pipes and cause a serious clog.

       
Pillar candles should be
burned in approved pillar
candle holders

       
Never leave a burning
candle unattended.